A weekend in... Zacatecas, Zacatecas.

The state of Zacatecas borders the northern highlands of Mexico and it's capital city of the same name is beautiful, colonial city.  Steeped in history and culture, Zacatecas offers a delightful insight into the importance of both art and, surprisingly, silver mining.  Two cultural aspects that seem so very far apart but live together serenely among desert-like countryside.  

We stayed at the Hotel Emporio Zacatecas, which is located in the heart of the city, just opposite the beautiful cathedral and was the perfect base for exploring the city on foot.  Once again, something that always seems to be the best way of exploring small Mexican cities, you can meander through (and up and down) the small streets which twist and turn, often leading to bustling plazas or hidden temples.  

The city has a variety of museums which display the talents of local artists as well as other historical artifacts.  The Museo Rafeal Coronel is the home to work of the Zacatecano artist which is set in the ruins of a former convent, the results are magnificent.  The location is so stunning that local girls use it for the backdrop for quinceañeras and wedding photos.  The crumbling walls are surrounded by charming gardens, made even more splendid by a cloud free blue sky.   The museum is also home to hundreds of ceremonial, festival, and death masks and gives comprehensive explanations of their history, use and craftsmanship.  

On the other end of the scale, a trip down into the Mina Eden, a former silver mine, displays the stark contrast between the demand for the precious metal and the horrendous treatment of local indigenous people who were basically enslaved to mine the silver.  Our incredibly knowledgeable guide told us that every day 1 in 3 of the workers died in the mine.  The mine originally had seven levels but now the bottom 2 (I believe) are flooded by crystal clear water, full of minerals and deathly still.  The guide informed us of all the local legends and ghost stories, gave us a peso to make a wish into the fountain, and even stole us quartz from the rock.  The Mina is also home to a nightclub/bar where you can dance away the night underneath the twinkling quartz.  A must visit destination in one of the most famous silver cities in Mexico. 

From the Mina you are able to take a cable car (teleférico) across the roofs of the city to the Cerro de la Bufa, a hill that dominates the landscape of the city.  At the top of the hill, you have amazing panoramic vistas of the colourful little houses on the steep streets and the domes of the grandiose colonial churches.  There are also statues of the Mexican revolutionaries (one of which is the grandfather of our mine tour guide!) and a quaint temple.  We then enjoyed (!) a trek down the hill back into the town, good walking shoes required but easier going down the hill than up!

Typical of Mexico, Zacatecas offers a wide range of Mexican and international cuisine, and as typical of me and my gallstones, I was very limited with what I could eat.  However, we had delicious meals that left me
feeling satisfied and pleased that I could eat more than a sandwich.  The Mykonos Cocina Mediterranea does what it says on the tin and does it very well at that.  A good selection of Mediterrean cuisine that was delicious, I had Spaghetti arrabiata, which was very tasty with a lovely kick of chilli and black pepper.  Also, amazing humous and flatbread.  We also ate in El Mercader, situated in an old market place, wonderful salads, pasta and Mexican food.  Also delicious limonada (I have made it my mission to sample limonada in each place I travel to!).

Zacatecas was a perfect, relaxing weekend away.  A small but charming city, with lots to do and plenty of opportunities to sit and soak up the Mexican atmosphere if you'd simply prefer to do that.