Casa Mexico, Suffolk.

As you can imagine, one of the things I miss most about living in Mexico is the food.  Mexican food is simply amazing:  the colours, smells, flavours.  Genuine Mexican food is very underrated, it's a million  miles away from the Tex-Mex and Old El Paso we are led to believe is what Mexican's eat every day.  Because of this, it can be really hard to find authentic Mexican products in England and even harder when you live in rural Suffolk.  However, last year Casa Mexico opened up in Stonham Aspal, a small village here in Suffolk.

We finally got round to visiting the shop last week and stepping inside the former pub was like arriving back in Mexico.  It's a treasure trove of all things truly Mexican.  It stocks all kind of Mexican goodies: from glassware to art to groceries.  

We, of course, headed straight to the food section of the shop! It brought back so many happy memories and cravings for authentic Mexican food.  There were fresh flour tortillas, corn tortillas, tinned salsas, refried beans, dried fijoles, totopos, sweets... so many delicious goodies!  I could have easily bought one of everything but instead I limited myself to a few bits and pieces, ready to make a Mexican bank holiday feast.  

The owner explained to us that they used to live in Guadalajara for 15 years and all of goods were bought in Tonalá (which is where I used to work out there).  It's so nice to be able to chat about Guadalajara here in England as it's something that we've had to almost leave behind.  

Everything was very reasonable priced, considered it has to be imported from the other side of the world.  We picked up tortillas, totopos, salsa and sweets for around £6.  I will definitely go back to visit this little slice of Mexico in sunny Suffolk! 

Four Seasons Mexico DF : a review.

Every now and again you stay in a hotel that can blow you away. The Four Seasons in Mexico City did that to me. The Four Seasons is a luxury hotel chain that commands brilliant locations and often hefty price tags, and sometimes, with other hotels of similar reputation, you can be disappointed. However, not with this hotel located on the central Paseo de la Reforma on the edge of Chapultepec forest in Mexico City.

 

From the moment we arrived, we received five star service. Welcomed with a delicious agua fresca (cold water flavoured with mint tea and lemon) and impeccable service from the bellboy and reception staff, we knew that we would have a fantastic stay. 

The room was spacious and lovely, with all the necessities and more. The beds are incredible, the toiletries L'Occitane, and luxurious extras such as bath robes and interactive televisions come as standard in this hotel. The housekeeping was also flawless; with a turn down service as well as the standard housekeeping.

The other areas of the hotel are also kept immaculately clean and tidy and every member of staff goes out of their way to make you feel welcome and assured that every need is catered to, without being overbearing or interfering. 

The food was also very good and reasonably priced for a hotel of this calibre, for example, the breakfast buffet served in the bar was $300 (around £15) and the extensive menu during the day and evening offer a wide range of food and drinks.

We enjoyed the hotel's outdoor swimming pool and whirlpool, it was so lovely to be in an outside swimming pool during the rain and we were provided with towels and bottled water upon going in the deliciously warm whirlpool with water jets. It's small touches like these that make this hotel stand out.  The spa also looked very inviting with a range of massage and other beauty treatments. 

This hotel was an oasis of calm and tranquility in the huge metropolis of Mexico City and gave us the perfect opportunity to wind down and contemplate over the past year in my second home, Mexico. 

San Sebastian del Oeste, Jalisco

Just like the Islas Marietas tour, we took this tour to San Sebastian del Oeste with Vallarta Adventures.  San Sebastian is a small town that I had heard a lot about during my stay in Mexico and when the opportunity arose to go and visit while in Nuevo Vallarta, I jumped at it.  

Nestled in the Sierra Madre Occidental, San Sebestian thrived during the 17th century, thanks to the many silver and gold mines that brought prosperity and work into the town.  At its peak, more than 30,000 people lived in the area and now, the town counts 600 souls as it's population.  It's been named a pueblo mágico, which means that the town now receives promotion as a tourist destination as long as it retains its colonial buildings and other structures.  For me, it's fascinating history and unique Mexican charm make it a destination well worth visiting. 

The first stop on our tour was the beautiful Hacienda Jalisco. During San Sebastian's hey day, it was the only dwelling in the town to have electricity and since then, it has been visited by celebrities and movie stars. It's a beautiful colonial hacienda that now houses artefacts from the mining days as well as offering the ultimate getaway and relaxation spot, as it doubles as a bed and breakfast. It would be perfect for escaping the commotion of daily life; as now, it doesn't have electricity at all, leaving you with all the time you need to unwind and switch off. The gardens of the Hacienda are beautifully maintained and give you a snap shot into the days of colonisation in Mexico.

San Sebastian is also renowned for it's coffee production. We were lucky enough to visit an organic, independent coffee plantation on the outskirts of San Sebatstian, that has been producing coffee for hundreds of years. The workers harvest tonnes of coffee from the mountains by hand and then go on to produce coffee to sell. It was an amazing opportunity to visit a small, family business in Mexico and support the local economy. The coffee itself was amazing and we bought some back to England to enjoy here; visiting the plantation also made me realise the hard work that goes into coffee production and understand why it's such an expensive product - we should support the fair coffee trade! 

The pueblo of San Sebastián itself is also delightful. Wandering around the small, original cobbled streets was again, an insight into post colonisation Mexican life. In the central plaza, you can see the pergola (essential in every Mexican town) and the beautiful church. As always, these plazas are very important to local life as they serve as a meeting spot, are usually impeccably maintained, and there, you can happily watch the world go by. 

San Sebastián still retains it's colonial charm and doesn't shy away from it's impressive mining history, with one small silver workshop still making and selling silver jewellery and other merchandise. The original features of the town mean that you feel like you are almost stepping back in time. Mexico is steeped in history: fascinating, intricate, at times brutal, and one that takes a lot of time to dissect the different stratas. Visits to small towns such as San Sebastián not only give a glimpse into the history of this incredible country, but also into the daily life of Mexicans living away from the big tourist destinations. 

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Islas Marietas

While we were staying in Nuevo Vallarta, we decided to do a couple of excursions so my family could see a tiny bit more of the Pacific coast.  Having already done and enjoyed a trip the Islas Marietas, we thought it was a great way to spend a relaxing day.  Like I said, I had taken this tour before but this time we went with Vallarta Adventures, and took the Marietas Eco Discovery tour and were not disappointed!

The Marietas Islands are a group of small islands in the Banderas Bay and they are home to a wide variety of marine life, and the water is crystal clear and a lovely, warm temperature.  The day we went required an early start - we left the marina at 7am - but it's definitely worth the early morning.  When we arrived at the first island, we were the only boat there, it was so peaceful avoiding the later in the day rush of tens of boats and hundreds of snorkelers.  The weather didn't seem on our side to begin with; we sailed to the islands in heavy rain and a huge thunderstorm, which led to swimming into the hidden beach and snorkelling during a lightening storm.  My initial thoughts were that it would be terrifying but in actual fact, the sea was still calm and it made for an even more memorable experience; how many people can say they experienced this amazing wildlife and environment in a lightening storm?  

The hidden beach is something out of a movie - you jump into the water and swim through a tunnel of volcanic rock into the 'middle' of the island.  Once you reach the other side of the small tunnel, you reach crystal clear waters, teaming with small fish onto a perfect, white sanded, hidden beach.  The beach is completely surrounded by more rocks, with green fauna growing and playing host to hundreds of birds.  It's truly spectacular and out of this world.  You can explore hidden caves around the beach, relax in the water or snorkel and enjoy the marine wildlife.  On the swim back out to the boat, you have the opportunity to snorkel around the edges of the boat and witness the coral reefs, fish and ecosystems in the bay. I love snorkelling, for me, I feel like I've been transported away from real life and love seeing the fish - I was so happy to have seen a starfish on the sea bed!

After exploring the hidden beach, we had the opportunity to kayak or paddle board - I decided to just swim and watch everyone else enjoy the other activities!  The weather had brightened a lot by the time we visited another island.  This time, we took a smaller speedboat to a beautiful beach, only reachable by boat.  Once again, the sands were soft and pure white, with gentler waves lapping the shore.  The beach was overlooked by a cliff with cacti lining the edges.  A perfect spot to wile away an hour or two and enjoy the sun and beautiful sea.  

Vallarta Adventures provided us with a delicious lunch on the way back to dry land and an open bar.  We were lucky enough to spot dolphins on the way back to and if you visit during between December and March, you may be lucky enough to spot whales.  The staff were friendly and knowledgeable, answer questions about the marine life or the activities. Vallarta Adventures are also trying to become a green company and treat the environment with the respect it deserves.  They try to recycle as well as leave no trace of tourists on the islands - ensuring no rubbish is left or wildlife damaged.  To me, this is so important as we need to maintain the islands and claim responsibility for the environment long after your tour has finished.  

All in all, an awesome day enjoying what Mexico has to offer!

  

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Beauty products I can't live without in Mexico

In Mexico, my beauty needs are quite different to when I'm in the UK. I'm not particularly high maintenance when it comes to make up, but here, between the heat, pollution, and tiring life style that I have, I need products that I can rely on and that do their job well. So here are my tried and tested favourite products.

The sun is pretty strong here and my British skin burns super easily; Most days in Guadalajara the UV rating is 11, so I need to protect my skin from the harmful rays. Nothing says tourist more than lobster red sun burn too and I like to try and blend in as much as I can! I use Soltan factor 30 on a daily basis, even if I'm working at school, because I have found that even being in the sun sans sun cream for 20 minutes leads to sun burn. This cream is also great because it has a built in insect repellent....

Which leads me to me my Jungle Formula Maximum Protection. Mosquito bites are the bane of my life and I cannot stand itching all the time. Although this part of Mexico is malaria free, there is the risk of dengue fever which can make you very sick. The Jungle Formula spray is pretty potent but it provides up to ten hours protection and I have found it to be much more reliable than just citronella. 

Benefit's Erase Paste is my morning saviour! I am not a morning person at all and the Erase Paste is one of my go to beauty products to help give me that fresh faced glow. I love the coverage and blendability of this product; it provides a good coverage without being heavy and it's so easy to blend in. I don't wear foundation or even much concealer here as my skin feels suffocated in the heat, so this high lighting concealer gives me a little bit of brightness when I am tired. 

Another highlighting product I love is Benefit's High Beam. Again, it is one of the products I use to make me look fresh faced and awake when I feel anything but that! I blend a small amount of this beautiful pearly pink highlighter into my cheek bones and brow bones for an immediate pick me up. It gives a little shimmer to the skin without being too glittery. My bottle has lasted me forever too. Great value for money.

I only really wear a lip stick during the day to give my face a little pop of colour, and my favourite is MAC's Chatterbox. A beautiful creamy lipstick in a bright but pastel pink: it has good staying power and is subtle enough for day wear but with more of a punch than a nude shade. 

Living in Mexico's second biggest city means that there is a lot of air pollution and this can have a real dulling effect on skin.  My skin is also really sensitive to any kind of change and often has break outs, even though overall, it's quite dry. I love The Body Shop's sumptuous chamomile cleansing butter.  I use this in the evening to rid my skin of make up and daily dirt and grime. It's simply wonderful! It's a pleasure to apply and easy to wash off; I wash it off when I jump in the shower. Afterwards, my skin feels clean, looks bright and clear, and isn't tight at all. The Body Shop is easy to find here in Mexico too and is reasonably priced so it's a clear winner for me. 

Finally, as I said, the heat can have a real drying effect of the skin and it's important to keep it moisturised and hydrated. My current favourite is a Neutrogena body lotion: it was actually in the Hilton in Florida but we loved it so much we brought all the miniatures back to Mexico to use! It's a lightweight cream but hydrates the skin well. It also has a delicious fresh and clean smell. I really hope I can find it back in England! 

Mexi-cooking: Horchata

I use the term "cooking" very loosely, because no actual cooking was required in making one of my favourite Mexican drinks! Horchata is an agua fresca (cool or fresh water), which is a very popular drink here to cool you down on the sweltering hot days. Agua fresca is water flavoured with whatever your heart so wishes: fruit, hibiscus flower, or like horchata for example, rice milk flavoured with vanilla and cinnamon. Delicious! I decided to try and make this drink because it's something that I will miss when I'm back in England and luckily found it was super easy to make. I followed this recipe, but adjusted it a little to suit my gallstones and lactose intolerant body!

Ingredients

• 1 cup uncooked white long grain rice
• 5 cups of water
• 1 cup of almond milk
• 1/2  tablespoon of vanilla extract
• 1/2 tablespoon of ground cinnamon 
• 1/2 cup of white sugar

Method

1. Put the rice and water into a blender and blend for approximately one minute, until the rice is in small pieces.  
2. Leave the rice and water to stand at room temperature for three hours.
3. Strain the rice water into a jug, discard the rice. 
4. Stir in the almond milk, vanilla extract, cinnamon and sugar.
5. Chill and enjoy!  

So easy!  A simple, delicious and refreshing drink for balmy summer days.  You can also add strawberries to give it a fruity twist or coconut milk instead of almond milk for a tropical treat.  One less thing for me to miss when I'm freezing back in England!

(Apologies for rubbishy photos... Mexican kitchen doesn't make for pretty backgrounds)

Los Cabos, Baja California Sur

When you hear "Los Cabos", the first thing that pops into your mind is drunk spring breakers doing tequila shots and partying until dawn, and it's true. There are nightclubs and bars aplenty offering cheap beer and shots. However, once you look past the neon bar signs and time share dealers, Los Cabos is a slice of heaven in Mexico. I was truly blown away by the Peninsula's natural beauty. In Los Cabos, you can find a holiday or a short break to suit all tastes and desires.

Firstly, we visited the Pacific coast, a string of pueblitos that sit in between hills and the beautiful Bajan beaches.  One of the must-see pueblos is Todos Santos: here you can find the Hotel California which is rumoured to have inspired the Eagles song of the same name, although I have read this is a Mexican tourist dupe.  It's a fairly typical Mexican-style hotel, and they house a little art collection and you are able to wander round and take photos.  Real or not, it's a worth a visit to the pueblito and it's pretty plaza.  Along the coast is a surfers paradise.  Los Cerritos beach is a famous spot where you can hit the waves, the beach itself is also lovely.  Golden sands bathed in sunlight, beautiful.
In the Pescadero area of the coast, you can try delicious Mexican coffee in Baja Beans, (coffee beans which are grown in the local area) and wander round the organic artisans market, where both natives and expats sell their goods opposite fields and fields of growing chillis. The area of Baja California Sur is still tourist-friendly but retains a little more genuine Mexican culture.  Often you will hear the American accent mingled in with Spanish but its laid back atmosphere makes for a welcoming destination.

If you fancy something a little more lively, head down to the famous Cabo San Lucas.  You can easily party the night away in famous clubs like El Squid Roe (mentioned in a ton of American teen TV shows when they head down to Cabo...) or dine in worldwide famous establishments like the Hard Rock Cafe.  The majority of the hotels that sit along the Medano beach are expensive resorts that offer a luxury stay in an amazing location and setting.  It's also possible to go whale spotting during the winter where they complete their migration in the Sea of Cortez. The iconic landmark of the area is the stunning Arco de Cabo San Lucas, on  the Sea of Cortez side of the arch you have the aptly named Playa del amor (Lover's beach), with it's tranquil, blue sea and white sand.  The arch or Land's End is where the Sea of Cortez meets the Pacific Ocean so just opposite to Lover's beach is la Playa de los divorciados (The divorcee's beach!), here the Pacific comes crashing onto the shore, two extreme demonstrations of nature's power and beauty.

One of our favourite spots to dine in was the rooftop restaurant of the Baja Brewing Co. in the Cabo Beach Villas Resort.  The restaurant overlooks the bay and across to Lovers beach and serves pub fare and other more 'elegant' dishes.  The Baja Brewing Co. is Los Cabo's only micro-brewery and serves a selection of around 12 different flavoured beers.  They vary in strength and body; from the Baja Blonde, a lighter, milder beer to the company's most aggressive beer El Peyote Pale Ale. Perfect if you want to take some down time from tequila and cocktails and enjoy a craft beer in a relaxing setting.

Los Cabos is a truly wonderful place.  It's probably one of my favourite parts of Mexico.  Even though it's a top tourist destination and full of expats, you can see stunning scenery and wildlife.  If you can step away from the intoxicating bright lights of the marina in Cabo San Lucas, it's worth venturing out at night to a remote beach and witnessing the most perfect star light sky.  You feel like you are almost alone on the planet, it's breathtaking.

Preconceptions of Mexico

It´s only natural that before you travel to or visit a new place, you will form some preconceptions or notions of that said place.  The media bombards us with information about countries, cultures, people, a lot of which is true but at the same time, a lot of which isn´t.  Mexico is a country that I believe comes off particularly badly when it comes to media portrayal.  I know that before I studied or learnt anything about the country I am living in now, I had a few preconceptions or had formed stereotypes of the culture.  However, after having lived here on two separate occasions for extended periods of time, not everything was as it initially seemed.

1. Violence

Perhaps the most unsettling image of Mexico projected to the rest of the world is that it is a country full of violence, kidnappings, corruption.  Sadly, no one can deny that it is a country that does have its problems, and they are very serious and worrying problems but they are not the be all and end all of Mexico. Living here, I have not experienced any violent drug related crime (touch wood) and I feel just as safe as I do when I'm in any other big city. Of course, there are areas of the country/city that people tell me are fairly dangerous and to stay away, so I do. But again, places in England make me feel vulnerable and uneasy. I take as few risks as possible, don't wear flashy jewellery, or walk alone in the early hours of the morning and involve myself in anything dubious. Once again, behaving how I behave anywhere. 

In addition to this, Mexicans are generally warm and friendly people. They are proud of their country and it hurts them to see such violence here. But as a temporary resident, I think the press is very misleading. You can easily live a peaceful,fulfilling life, full of happiness and enjoyment. I'm not trying to downplay the problems here, nor do I think they should be ignored. However, Mexico consistently receives bad press and taints the reputation of what is a beautiful, warm, fascinating and open country. 

2. Mexicans only eat nachos, fajitas and burritos. 

So many people I have spoken to assume that Mexican food is equivalent to the Old El Paso meal kits you can buy in the UK or Taco Bell. How wrong they are! Mexican food is, frankly, delicious. Mexican cuisine is so wide and so diverse that I come across a new dish when I go to a new restaurant or visit a different state. It's a lot more than just tacos (soft flour or corn tortillas of course, and honestly, amazing) and fajitas and chilli con carne simply don't exist here. Pozole, tamales, mole, tortas ahogadas, chilaquiles... There is a different dish for every occasion and all are bursting with flavour: a spicy kick from the chilli, zingy freshness from freshly squeezed lime, fresh coriander to balance out the intense flavours, or perfectly cooked, melt in the mouth meat, tantalising your taste buds with every bite. Even the Coca Cola tastes better here! Ice cold in a glass bottle, delicious. What's more, you have little food and drink stalls lining the streets where ever you go... Selling chopped fresh fruit pots (with chilli, lime and salt if you are a true Mexican), agua frescas: a soft drink made with different fruit flavours or rice milk, raspados: crushed ice mixed with a syrup made of fresh fruit, sugar and honey, or churros, coated with sugar and cinnamon. I could talk forever about the food, it's so much better than I could ever describe here! 

3. Mexico is full of spring breakers and drunk tourists. 

Cancún is probably the best known Mexican destination for British tourists and it already has a reputation as a party city. If you're an American spring breaker, perhaps you will visit Los Cabos or Puerto Vallarta. These destinations conjure up an image of drunk young people stumbling from bar to club to club, partying all night and roasting themselves red during the day. In fact, these tourist laden destinations even have hotels just for the spring breakers. For me, an intimidating thought! Although there is no getting around the fact these cities are extremely popular with tourists, geared towards tourists and is quite different from the "traditional" Mexican culture, you can enjoy these spots for the beautiful places they are. If you want to step off the beaten track, there are plenty of secluded beaches, with hammocks for the sleeping arrangements or plenty of beautiful towns and cities where dollars are not accepted, English is rarely spoken, and show the epitome of Mexican culture. Mexico is a diverse culture that pretty much caters for every want or need, you just have to take the time to look for it. 

4. Mexico is a third world country. 

As I stated earlier, Mexico has a lot of complex issues that are not resolved, and require a difficult to find solution. However, there is also an idea that Mexico is a third world country, complete with no sanitation, no drinking water, no education. There is no denying that the gap between rich and poor is horrifyingly extreme, but that's not to say that Mexico is akin to the out backs of Africa or remote areas of India. I obviously cannot speak on behalf of all the country, I have only visited the smallest portion and I have witnessed heartbreaking poverty. On the other hand, I have seen more Starbucks, exclusive malls and boutiques than I ever come across at home. If you lived in a Mexican city, you could live how you live in Europe (if you wanted to, of course); you could shop at Walmart, get your morning coffee from Starbucks, grab fast food at McDonald's or Subway, shop at H&M, Zara, Forever 21. Of course, if you come to a country as fascinating as Mexico, I'm definitely not suggesting you do that! Guadalajara, for example, has an extensive public transport system, is fairly clean, and has a rich/poor divide like London. Indeed, some parts of Mexico are struggling, some are very affluent, some live like "developed" countries and some live in the indigenous way. But to say that all of Mexico is a third world country? Never. 

Like I mentioned, I'm not by any means an expert, and please correct me if I'm wrong, but these are my experiences from living here. If I could, I would explain to everyone I meet that Mexico is not just what we see in the news or read in the papers. It's so much more than that. 

A weekend in... Zacatecas, Zacatecas.

The state of Zacatecas borders the northern highlands of Mexico and it's capital city of the same name is beautiful, colonial city.  Steeped in history and culture, Zacatecas offers a delightful insight into the importance of both art and, surprisingly, silver mining.  Two cultural aspects that seem so very far apart but live together serenely among desert-like countryside.  

We stayed at the Hotel Emporio Zacatecas, which is located in the heart of the city, just opposite the beautiful cathedral and was the perfect base for exploring the city on foot.  Once again, something that always seems to be the best way of exploring small Mexican cities, you can meander through (and up and down) the small streets which twist and turn, often leading to bustling plazas or hidden temples.  

The city has a variety of museums which display the talents of local artists as well as other historical artifacts.  The Museo Rafeal Coronel is the home to work of the Zacatecano artist which is set in the ruins of a former convent, the results are magnificent.  The location is so stunning that local girls use it for the backdrop for quinceañeras and wedding photos.  The crumbling walls are surrounded by charming gardens, made even more splendid by a cloud free blue sky.   The museum is also home to hundreds of ceremonial, festival, and death masks and gives comprehensive explanations of their history, use and craftsmanship.  

On the other end of the scale, a trip down into the Mina Eden, a former silver mine, displays the stark contrast between the demand for the precious metal and the horrendous treatment of local indigenous people who were basically enslaved to mine the silver.  Our incredibly knowledgeable guide told us that every day 1 in 3 of the workers died in the mine.  The mine originally had seven levels but now the bottom 2 (I believe) are flooded by crystal clear water, full of minerals and deathly still.  The guide informed us of all the local legends and ghost stories, gave us a peso to make a wish into the fountain, and even stole us quartz from the rock.  The Mina is also home to a nightclub/bar where you can dance away the night underneath the twinkling quartz.  A must visit destination in one of the most famous silver cities in Mexico. 

From the Mina you are able to take a cable car (teleférico) across the roofs of the city to the Cerro de la Bufa, a hill that dominates the landscape of the city.  At the top of the hill, you have amazing panoramic vistas of the colourful little houses on the steep streets and the domes of the grandiose colonial churches.  There are also statues of the Mexican revolutionaries (one of which is the grandfather of our mine tour guide!) and a quaint temple.  We then enjoyed (!) a trek down the hill back into the town, good walking shoes required but easier going down the hill than up!

Typical of Mexico, Zacatecas offers a wide range of Mexican and international cuisine, and as typical of me and my gallstones, I was very limited with what I could eat.  However, we had delicious meals that left me
feeling satisfied and pleased that I could eat more than a sandwich.  The Mykonos Cocina Mediterranea does what it says on the tin and does it very well at that.  A good selection of Mediterrean cuisine that was delicious, I had Spaghetti arrabiata, which was very tasty with a lovely kick of chilli and black pepper.  Also, amazing humous and flatbread.  We also ate in El Mercader, situated in an old market place, wonderful salads, pasta and Mexican food.  Also delicious limonada (I have made it my mission to sample limonada in each place I travel to!).

Zacatecas was a perfect, relaxing weekend away.  A small but charming city, with lots to do and plenty of opportunities to sit and soak up the Mexican atmosphere if you'd simply prefer to do that.

Ajijic, Jalisco

Ajijic is a charming little town that sits upon the shores of Lake Chapala in Jalisco, Mexico. The town thrives on it's mixture of traditional Mexican culture and that of the laid back, trendy Americans who flock to the town during the winter months or have retired there. Although some usually frown upon the ever growing influence of the United States on Mexico, Ajijic maintains its charm with cobbled streets and sun kissed central plaza, and is far, far away from the commercialism of other costal tourist hotspots like Cancún or Puerto Vallarta.

It's possible to while away the hours perusing the art galleries, boutiques or simply wandering the streets, soaking up the sun. We came across Babaras Bazar whilst meandering through the different through streets, a Bazar of everything and anything, from antiques, to first edition Harry Potter books, to old kitchen appliances and material. It was a treasure trove of goodies each way you turned and cost nothing to look at all the different things you wanted, Magimixs or 19th century German chairs. Ajijic continues to please with little hideaways such as these, so pleasant for a first timer to the town! 

Breakfast at La Una. 

Another enjoyable way to explore a different place is, of course, through food!  However, since I am still ill, I have to be very careful about what and where I eat and I am always beyond thrilled when I can eat something in a restaurant.  Fortunately, Ajijic offered a wide range of eateries that are relatively gallstone-friendly.  Richie 88 is a charming cafe offering baguettes, salads, burgers and delicious Italian sodas, all of which can be enjoyed in a shaded patio.  We also had breakfast in La Una, a French-style cafe with free coffee refills with breakfast.  La Una offers continental-style breakfast (a generous portion of fresh fruit, with yoghurt, granola), eggs (of every variety!), waffles and French toast, again with a leafy green patio area.  What better way to enjoy breakfast?  It's worth paying a visit to Cafe Grano as well, extremely good Mexican coffee to revitalise you after a morning in the sun.  The ambience of the cafe was relaxed and informal, and you can buy a variety of  ethically grown coffee beans to take home if you
desire.  Ajijic also has a wide selection of restaurants of different international cuisine.  One restaurant that has had nothing but good reviews is Ajijic Tango, an Argentinian restaurant which was packed to the rafters when we were there, definitely one I want to try next time I visit Ajijic.  

Ajijic means 'the place where the water flows' in Nahuatl, an indigenous language spoken in Mexico and walking along the boardwalk of the lake allows you to take in its shear size.  A pleasant breezes cools the hot sun during the day and watching the sunset in the evening is magical.  Almost a meeting place, the boardwalk is a perfect spot to people watch, Mexican tourists chattering and soaking up the atmosphere or residents, both native and ex pat, walk their dogs or simply sit and listen to the waves lapping the shore.  Ajijic may be the most commercialised of the towns surrounding Chapala lake but don't let that put you off, it's a tranquil, yet thriving, gem that is a wonderful spot to enjoy a few days away.

Living life in a different language

Although this may seem very obvious, living life in a foreign language does indeed pose some problems. I feel lucky that before coming to Mexico this time round, I was somewhat familiar with the culture and indeed the language.  The Spanish that I learnt at university differs quite a lot from the Spanish that I speak here, not just in the accent (so much easier to understand a Mexican accent!) but the vocabulary, the grammar structures and colloquial language. For me, it's quite difficult to explain this because as a native English speaker, I recognise the differences between British English and American English, I can pick them out, I can mock (in jest, of course) the pronunciation of certain words or the accent, but it never really causes any problems.  However, when you translate these aspects of a language into your second/third language, things never seem to go as smoothly.  At times, it still really feels like I do not speak any Spanish, not that I'm a graduate that has lived in Mexico for however many months! 

The problems and difficulties aside, I get a lot of enjoyment from living my life in a foreign language. It may sound odd but I think understanding Mexican Spanish gives you a different insight into the culture and after a while, you understand a bit more about the Mexican people as a whole.  For example, Mexicans have a wickedly dirty sense of humour, they love play on words and double entendres. You think you are saying something completely innocent, clean, and not intending to sound dirty or sexual at all... And then, in response you get a raised eyebrow and a giggle. Also, Mexicans tend to use a lot of words in daily speech that, if you were to translate them, equate as swear words into English.  It's okay to use these groserías or swear words in pretty much any situation (probably wouldn't use them in front of the head teacher of my school or elderly people), these words can be so expressive! Once again though, you'll probably get laughed at (not in a malicious way) because hearing a foreigner swear in their non native tongue is always fairly amusing! 

Sometimes it can be a struggle to express yourself and your personality in a foreign language, the struggle to find a particular word can make sentences or phrases sound quite awkward and I find myself babbling '... You know, that thing that is like....', usually I'm understood and it's so satisfying to find that word that seems as clear as day to you in English but completely elusive in Spanish. I always feel a sense of achievement when I make people laugh in Spanish too, often because I am saying what I would say in English but in Spanish...!  I still have to stop myself at times when I realise I am holding my own in a conversation in Spanish and I feel like I sound like myself, saying exactly what I want to say and how I want to say it. 

Another interesting (and in my opinion, pretentious) development is that occasionally I cannot remember the English word for something.  I know the Spanish word, I can picture the image of said word in my mind but the English word has just vanished. Another time where I use the forever faithful '... You know, that thing that is...' but this time in English! I'm not sure if it's because my Spanish is improving, I've shoved so much random information into my brain that it cannot take anymore, or because I'm simply getting old.  I wouldn't even say that I'm good at Spanish, I get by and I wish I could understand how the brain works when it learns another language.  How it just knows what a word in a different language means without having to actively translate it or search for the native equivilent. For me, it truly is fascinating. 

I often wonder what it will be like when I get back to England. To be able to understand peoples random chatter on buses or in coffee shops. To not have people look at you oddly if you take a split second too long to respond because you haven't quite understood what they have said. To not have people asking me where I am from every time I speak Spanish.  I think it will all be quite strange; I think all of this makes up the Mexican part of me. 

Trials and tribulations

This time round, my stay in Mexico hasn't been plain sailing. Don't get me wrong, I've had and am still having an amazing time here, full of unique and eye opening experiences but I'm also having the unfortunate pleasure of being quite ill.

My first piece of advice would be to always, always take out travel insurance! Before, I never really saw the importance of it, I'm not one to place huge value on my possessions, my camera isn't worth a lot of money, my laptop is replaceable and although I'd be very annoyed and upset to have my iPad stolen, it wouldn't be the end of the world. I never once even considered the importance of the medical part of my travel insurance. I just took out insurance as habit, really. Luckily as well, I am fortunate enough to be covered by social security, so should I have my operation or need emergency care, it will all be covered. If I wasn't covered though and without travel insurance I would definitely be in a pickle. 

After years and years of having various stomach/abdominal/digestive complaints, I come to Mexico and suffer from several nights of excruciating pain, I'm talking pain that causes everything else to seem like a blur, pain that causes me to vomit and fills me full of haziness. I'm not sure if it's a good or bad thing that I have suffered with these episodes before, I had visited British doctors before and been sent away with antacids or painkillers. This time though, the Mexican doctors sent me for tests, I've had ultrasounds, x rays, blood tests (all of which I've had to pay for so far... Insurance, people!), a gazillion tablets and been diagnosed with gallstones, as well as having repeated bouts of colitis. The doctors have told me I need to have an operation to remove my gallbladder. Now, anyone who knows me well would realise that an operation would put the fear of god in me... Even if I were at home. Being the other side of the world, without my family, and where everything is in medical jargon Spanish and having to contemplate being operated on is, frankly, terrifying. 

Of course, this isn't what I expected when I decided to come back to Mexico and although it's not really impacting on my enjoyment of being here at all, it has meant that I've had to make some pretty drastic changes to mi vida mexicana. The most notable is that i cannot eat much fat... So, no tacos, quesadillas, nachos, tortas, chocolate, pizza... Not until my gallbladder is out or I'll suffer further excruciating pain and a visit to a&e. Also no alcohol. No cerveza, no tequila, nada. This is an extreme healthy living kick! On the plus side, I'm eating more fruit and vegetables, minimal dairy and I've discovered I can enjoy going out without being drunk! No hangover! HURRAH! 

I'm in two minds as to whether I should have the operation or not. I have an appointment with a specialist in March, but I have very exciting travel plans in April so don't want to be worrying about post op care and after April, well, to be honest, I will have got through the majority of my time here being ill so would just wait to go home. I also have the option of feigning/having pain bad enough to go to emergencies and having an emergency operation.. I'm really not the biggest fan of that option either.  At the moment I am just waiting. Taking each day and each temptation as it comes. 

It's really not ideal to be ill while you are working the other side of the world, obviously but in a way I am quite proud of myself for getting this far, I could have easily given up and gone home.  But that'd be very unlike me. and besides, this is going to make for a hell of a story in years to come. 

Hola desde México... de nuevo!

After managing one entry on my blog from Mexico last time round, I have decided to embark upon the blogging bandwagon once again.  I hope that this time round, nearly two years after my last Mexican adventure, I can find the time to write more than one blog entry.

So, what's different this time round?  I am a graduate, no longer with the pressures of having to improve my Spanish for final year, I can simply enjoy learning the language and this has made me a lot more relaxed when it comes to speaking.  I am working as a English language assistant in a technical secondary school here in Guadalajara, it's been an amazing opportunity for me so far and the responsibility means I have partied a tiny bit less than last time I was here.  Mexico is still the same country that continues to enthrall and amaze me and to be honest, I do not think I will ever tire of visiting and experiencing this fascinating culture.

It is quite strange because before coming to Mexico I never quite understood what it meant to 'leave your heart in x', and now I do.  England is my home, and I do miss the beautiful Suffolk countryside and my family, I think that I will continue to have a bond with Mexico, a country that indeed does have it's problems and is no way perfect but it's also a country that is so multifaceted and layered that it would almost take a life time to fully discover all of it's depth and mystery.

For example, you only need to look at the diversity of it's landscape.  Mexico is a huge, huge country, a fact I didn't fully comprehend until trying to plan trips!  Take the north of the country, there, the states experience highs of over 40oC in the summer and freezing temperatures during the winter.  Jalisco, where I live, is blessed with a temperate climate pretty much all year round, down south, you can experience jungles in Chiapas and then take the Yucatan peninsula, akin to the Caribbean, hurricanes and all.

The diversity of the culture is mirrored in exactly the same way, through the food, folklore, history.  It's fascinating and it has well and truly captured my heart.  I may not have expressed my love for this country as eloquently as many others have done before me, I do not claim to be an expert about the country or the culture, and I don't know what will happen when I return to England in July or when I will come back, but I am pretty certain I will come back, I think a part of me will be left here and I will also take a tiny bit of this incredible, amazing, enchanting country back home with me.

"I felt completely at home in Mexico - speaking Spanish to my cousins, running around Acapulco and stuffing my face with mole and homemade tortillas. Mexico opened my heart."Aimee Garcia